Summer Kimono (Katabira) with Flowing Water and Autumn Leaves 帷子 黒麻地流水紅葉模様かたびら くろあさじりゅすいもみじもよう

Description

Maple leaves are contrasted with arching lines of flowing water. This composition is a reference to the Tatsuta river in Nara, long-celebrated for its beautiful autumn foliage.

Katabira are ramie summer garments made without lining. Though made of ramie, this garment is woven with thin, high-quality threads, so it feels smooth to the skin rather than coarse and bristly. It must have felt comfortable to wear during Japan's hot and humid summers.
This garment features a design of autumn leaves in vivid colors on a black ground. Some leaves are embroidered in silk threads while others are rendered with stencils to create dots that resemble tie-dyed patterns. The white curved lines between the leaves represent flowing water, which, combined with the autumn leaves, brings to mind Tatsutagawa, a celebrated river that has featured in many Japanese poems. Tatsutagawa runs through the Mount Ikoma area in Nara prefecture and it has long been a famous place to view autumn leaves. The contrast between the simplified, jaunty flowing water and the graceful autumn leaves creates a strong impression.
The cut-off patterns on the sleeves suggest this was originally a long-sleeved garment called a furisode, the sleeves of which were later shortened. The sophisticated design filled with literary allusions also suggests it was worn by a high-ranking lady from a military family.
Flowing water and autumn leaves may seem a strange combination for a summer garment made of ramie, but the leaves conjure up images of the autumn season to come, while flowing water exudes a sense of refreshing coolness. In an era without air conditioners, this design probably provided a visual respite from the heat and humidity.