Dewa Sanzan: A Journey to Rebirth ~ 300-year-old cedars and 2,446 stone steps ~ 自然と信仰が息づく『生まれかわりの旅』 ～樹齢300年を超える杉並木につつまれた2,446段の石段から始まる出羽三山～　ストーリー動画

Description

Mt. Haguro, Mt. Gassan, and Mt. Yudono are known collectively as the Dewa Sanzan, The Three Sacred Mountains of Dewa. Together, they form the core of the ascetic religion known as Shugendo, a unique Japanese mountain faith that mixes nature worship with esoteric Buddhist beliefs. Mt. Haguro at 414 meters represents the present, where worshippers pray for rewards in this life; Mt. Gassan at 1,984 meters, the past, where they appease the spirits of their ancestors; and Mt. Yudono at 1,504 meters, the future, where they pray for rebirth in a future life. The common people of the Edo period (1603-1867) considered a visit to the Dewa Sanzan as a journey to rebirth. Many visitors still embark on this journey from one of the eight Happo Nanakuchi entrances to the mountains via a land route known as the Rokujurigoe Kaido, or Rokujuri Mountain Pass Road, or by boat along the Mogami River. There are temple lodgings along the road and around the mountain entrances, with over 300 in the Toge area at the foot of Mt. Haguro alone. Temples run by yamabushi mountain priests still welcome worshipers in Toge today. Toge residents grow up participating in events such as the Shoreisai fire festival and watching adults welcome worshipers. This builds a close familiarity with the three sacred mountains and the beliefs of the yamabushi. Many young local men go on to become yamabushi themselves after rigorous training, allowing them to guide worshipers on their “journey to rebirth.” Dewa Sanzan Sanjin Gosaiden Mt. Haguro became a sacred spot some 1,400 years ago when Prince Hachiko (542-641) was forced to flee to Dewa Province following the assassination of his father, Emperor Sushun (519-592). He began to worship Sho Kanzeon, the boddhisatva of salvation in earthly life here. The present path to the mountaintop, around two kilometers in length from the Zuishinmon Gate entrance, consists of 2,446 stone steps that run through cedars dating back 300-500 years. The Sanjin Gosaiden Shrine venerates not only the deity of Mt. Haguro but also those of Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudono, much higher mountains that are closed to worshipers during the winter. The shrine has a thatched roof that is designed to withstand heavy snowfall. Worshipers at the shrine offer prayers for the present world, such as asking for the peace of the nation or an abundant harvest, before moving on to Mt. Gassan. Five-story pagoda of Mt. Haguro The austere five-story pagoda at Mt. Haguro is held to have been built in 1372, replacing an earlier structure from the 930s. The pagoda is said to have been part of Ryusuiji Temple, one of many temples in the area at the time, but only the pagoda remains today. It stands along the path to the Sanjin Gosaiden Shrine. The pagoda is designated a National Treasure and is built in traditional shirakizukuri style, with naturally colored wood and a kokerabuki wood-shingled roof. Its simple and natural appearance makes it one of the most exquisite pagodas in Japan. Gassan Shrine Mt. Gassan is the tallest of the Dewa Sanzan mountains. It is known as the “mountain of the past” based on the ancient belief that the souls of the departed rise to the tops of high mountains. There is a marshland at the eighth station on Mt. Gassan called Midagahara, representing “the pure land of perfect bliss.” Beyond lies a steep slope of perilous rocks known as gyosha-gaeshi (“turning back pilgrims”). The Gassan Shrine enshrines Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, the god of the night. The Year of the Rabbit in the twelve-year animal cycle is considered to be the shrine’s lucky year as the rabbit is said to be the messenger of the moon (“Gassan” literally means “moon mountain”). A visit to the shrine in the Year of the Rabbit is said to earn the pilgrim twelve years of good fortune. Visits are only possible from July 1 to September 15, after which the mountain is closed to travelers. Mt. Yudono Mt. Yudono is noted for the giant red boulder at its peak, from which hot water flows. The boulder is honored as representing the mystical power of women to bring forth new life. The mountain also venerates Oyamatsumi, the god of the mountains from whom all life is born. The severe terrain of the mountain makes it well-suited for religious austerities, such as waterfall ablutions and arduous upstream hikes. This physically challenging training is said to represent the pains of childbirth. The mountain itself has been regarded as holy since ancient times, and there is no physical shrine since nothing man-made is permitted on the site. Worshipers must approach barefoot and undergo a purification rite before entering. Touching the red boulder is said to draw the energy of the earth into the body through the palm of the hand and the soles of the feet. Dewa Sanzan’s shojin ryori cuisine Dewa Sanzan’s shojin ryori, traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, has been shaped by the Shugendo faith. It was created and passed down by yamabushi priests living deep in the mountains. Time-consuming cooking methods and special preservation techniques like the removal of astringent tastes were introduced to help the priests survive the harsh winters. The dishes are named after places with connections to the Dewa Sanzan faith, such as Hakusanjima (sesame tofu) and Kakegoya (Gassan bamboo shoots simmered with fried tofu). Shojin ryori culinary methods have become a part of the local food culture and are also employed in normal home cooking. The cuisine can be enjoyed at the Saikan temple lodging on Mt. Haguro or at the many temple lodgings in the Toge district.