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化粧 / 立命館大学アート・リサーチ・センター

Kesho (Makeup)

There is evidence of makeup being used as far back as the Jomon era where a red pigment was applied to the face and body as a kind of body decoration. From the Heian era, shiro-gesyo (white makeup) began to be used.

In ancient Japan, from the Jomon era until the Nara era, aka-kesho (red makeup) was used to apply a red pigment to the face and body. The human-shaped clay Haniwa figures excavated during the Kofun era were painted with red pigment around the eyes and mouth. It is said that in ancient times, bengala (a mud dye made of minerals) and cinnabar were used. 'Red makeup' is also believed to have had a magical role.

The Heian era saw a new change in the idea of beauty and shiro-gesyo (white makeup) began to be used.

During the Edo era, makeup consisted of three colors: red for lipstick, white for oshiroi (face powder) and black to darken teeth and eyebrows. Lead-based white powder was used at that time, and many of the actors (such as Kabuki actors) who applied white makeup to their chests and backs developed lead poisoning.

Originally, the wearing of makeup was limited to momentous occasions, such as Shinto rituals and weddings, but since the Meiji era, it spread quickly from the urban areas and became part of daily wear for women. During this period, the harmful nature of lead-based white powder began to be discussed. The Kesho no Tebiki (‘Cosmetic Handbook’), published in 1906, describes how to prevent lead poisoning and the use of lead-free white powder.

After World War II, the American style of makeup gained the attention of the Japanese. This led to the sale of a variety of cosmetics, and more colorful makeup became available for the people of Japan.

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External Links

  • 東京都品川区に所在。ポーラ文化研究所の刊行物や映像資料、独自調査のレポート約90件をはじめ、約15,000冊の書籍や雑誌、1980年代以降の化粧関連新聞記事などを公開。

  • 東京都港区に所在。紅と紅屋の歴史、日本の化粧史を常設で紹介する伊勢半グループの企業資料館。常設展は観覧無料。化粧に関連する史資料が収蔵されており、サイト内にその一部を紹介。

  • 日本化粧品工業連合会は、化粧品の製造業者によって業界の健全な発展を推進するため、昭和34年(1959)に設立された全国団体。

  • 2012年2月14日から 2012年3月25日にかけて開催された展示『化粧』の作品リスト。

  • 2019年12月3日(火)~2020年5月6日(水) 日本の美容観や衛生観に影響を与えてきた石鹸と化粧品の歴史を商品と広告類を使って紹介する。

References

  1. 大和勇三 著,改造社
  2. 資生堂ビューティーサイエンス研究所 編,フレグランスジャーナル社
  3. 佐々木多聞 著,日高有倫堂
  4. 山田美妙 著,開拓社
  5. 長崎白美社 編,長崎白美社
  6. 愚庵 著,文陽堂[ほか]
  7. 喜田川守貞 著,室松岩雄 等校訂,聖光社
  8. 東西庵南北 作,歌川国丸 画,丸屋文右衛門
  9. 池田錦水 著,家庭新報社
  10. 所青楓 著,田村定助
  11. 野村久太郎 編,伊東胡蝶園
  12. 三田村真喜 (雪の家主人) 著,美人社